The Freeware Hall Of Fame

PART I - Charlottesville And Albemarle County

PART II - Strengths and weaknesses

Last updated Mar. 26, 2008

Part I

Charlottesville, Virginia, may be what American cities would be if they had a choice.

It's an island of civilized awareness in the mid-Southeast. People fed up with the declining world find living in Charlottesville the best revenge.

Charlottesville is a romantic city in ways very different from the magnolia and Spanish moss romance of the deep South. That's historical romance. Charlottesville is contemporary, a place for today's romantics, even the home of the nation's best gentile bagels.

There's no secret to understanding the Southeast. From 1861 to 1865 many of the region's best and brightest were killed believing they were freedom fighters in the war for Southern independence.

With their land devastated and their economy crippled, the able and ambitious left to seek life's rewards in the North and West, creating a massive brain drain in the South that lasted 100 years.

Later jim crow enveloped the region, rendering the South insufferable to anyone black except the servile, so the able and ambitious African-Americans left also.

Southerners who stayed home were wonderful folks but seldom the swiftest.

For 100 years the South was dominated by badly schooled gentry and barely schooled rednecks who shared a secret pride they were betrayed by god. Their regional culture became affectionately known as Southern Hospitality. Racist, rustic, and polite. Have a ham biscuit.


Early 20th century education here - white >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> vs. black

For a true Southerner there's no such thing as the past. Every true Southerner is a living part of Southern history. Southern heritage is one very long day. The Northern Invasion happened just after breakfast. It's now later that day.

Not that we don't have a lot of folks here who thought they were passing through, paused to stop for lunch, and never left. Some of them are wonderful folks. They may be here for 60 years, be our mayors and councilmen and legislators, even our governor. And when they die, the undertaker will call the family to ask what state the deceased calls home so they can ship the body.

Charlottesville escaped some of that. We were a small Virginia town heavily influenced by superman Thomas Jefferson whose home, Monticello, overlooks us. Thanks to Jefferson, in the American religion Charlottesville is a holy city.

In 1819 Jefferson founded The University of Virginia here which has influenced our town ever since. Students (with many lapses) and faculty (with many lapses) compensated somewhat for the local brain drain.

Jefferson also imported artisans from Europe to build his structures, and faculty to staff his university. Many of their descendants are still here.

Thanks to the University and an enlightened post-WW II president named Colgate Darden, by the 1950s the brain drain here was in reverse even as the rest of the South was still leaking.

To this fertile ground Charlottesville attracted and nurtured exotic growths that can seldom be successfully transplanted. For example, the useless off-spring of America's industrial midwest rich settled in the county farmlands around our city.

It is those - our Jefferson implants and wide-ranging transplants - that make Charlottesville and Albemarle County a delicious mini-civilization.

America's inherited rich are not equal. Those who control the great US industries dwell in rust belt states. Their most able sons dwell near them. What of the less able sons and daughters, rich but not welcome in corporate board rooms? What of the skipped-over, impotent victims of generation-skipping trusts?

Many came to Albemarle County and stayed. He and she ride to the hounds, insatiably drink, feel endlessly sorry for themselves, and live in a culture dominated by the horse. It the grandest thing that can happen to an area.

Why? Think chain stores and national corporations.

Chain stores and national businesses provide a wonderful addition to the variety and range of shopping when they come to town, and they provide jobs and usually advertising revenue. The downside is that after the bills are paid, they ship the profits out of state to the home office. The chains suck up local money and spend it expanding elsewhere, along the way distributing some to the founders and investors. This is money lost to the home town that generated it.

That's the downside. The upside is that those who reap those profits often spend them where they live, and a lopsided number live here. So national business is not all outflow to us. Most of our wealthy didn't take it from their neighbors; they earned it elsewhere and invest it here.

One example: newspaper magnate John Knight married into the horsey set here, but not even counting the Knight-Ridder chain the owners of more than 125 US daily newspapers lived in Albemarle County in recent years.

We've been able to rely on this imported wealth for local investment, political and charitable contributions, entertainment, social life, etc. I'll mention some below.

Attracted by mint juleps served in monogrammed silver, celebs have been coming to this area for generations. Writers, actors, painters, and all manner of the accomplished came to this land of congeniality. Those who left pretense behind found a welcome.

Aside from true southerners few today care about history. Citing celebs like local product S. S. Van Dine, the seminal detective story writer who fled to New York to create Philo Vance (and never came back,) or Southern intellectual James Branch Cabell who succeeded in New York without severing Southern ties, or composer Randall Thompson, won't stir today's reader.

Still, mention should be made of former local color Oskar Hansen, a noted 20th century sculptor and a great character. Those who met Hansen never forgot him. He lived the full lives of three normal men and then some. Millions see his great sculptures at Hoover Dam, and reproductions of his consumer works are still popular at Virginia Metalcrafters in nearby Waynesboro. Here's a brief, borrowed, bio which will grow when I have time to scan pictures of his works and add more details.

Current memories begin now with William Faulkner who came here in retirement to ride-to-hound.

Faulkner's grandsons are here. They founded the first local brew pub. It was down the street from where the area's most unusual restaurant was located, John Tuck's legendary Gaslight. Restaurants define local ambience and are defined by it. The Gaslight couldn't have been what it was anywhere else. This history might bring back some memories.

Writer Rita Mae Brown came here as Martina Navratilova's companion. The tennis star moved on (athletes usually do) but Rita stayed to ride-to-hound, telling us (as everyone before her had,) "If the world were a logical place, men would ride side-saddle."

John Grisham and John Casey write their novels here, and Grisham is a generous civic benefactor. Former poet laureate Rita Dove writes her poems here and often lends her presence to projects. The late Mary Lee Settle's wonderful books were penned here for years. Grand Master short story writer Peter Taylor bought Faulkner's house and ended his teaching and writing career here, trying to teach his craft to scores of us.

When Ian Fleming died, his estate chose someone to continue writing the James Bond novels. The guy instantly moved here. When someone was finally commissioned to write a sequel to Gone With The Wind, it was someone here, Alexandra Ripley. (Did anyone read "Scarlett?")

The great Herald Tribune TV critic John Crosby retired here. He defined forever the problems facing a TV critic when he said in 1955: "He is forced to be literate about the illiterate, witty about the witless and coherent about the incoherent."

Sports celeb Howie Long calls this home, as do Mr. and Mrs. Jack Fisk (Sissy Spacek) and WKRP's Venus Flytrap, Tim Reid. Sissy is a model of civic involvement, lending her support where appropriate.

Caveat: if you see a familiar face on the street or in the supermarket do not ask for an autograph. Mind your own business. You have one chance to make a first impression. The wrong one and you're forever out.

For as long as she could stand Sam Shepard pinching every waitress butt, Jessica Lange lived here with him. Alan Alda had a place nearby. Muhammad Ali, shown here in 1987 with one of my kids, was in neighboring Nelson county.

When John Kluge's TV properties were sold to make the Fox TV network, John brought his 7 billion here and the area ramped up to be Palm Springs East. Grand parties, celeb helicopters, heights of vacuity Faulkner never imagined until he read F. Scott Fitzgerald.

With no ostentation whatever, billionaire mensch Edgar Bronfman moved in, either to be near his daughter or away from his sons. Very different style. Kluge favors a Volvo limo; Bronfman drives beat-up wheels.

Multi-multi-millionaire widows move here for the company. The Cities Service widow lives and invests here, as does the Schenley widow. An heiress to downtown Palm Beach with a husband named Merlin.

When all her glitter turned to dross, the leading claimant to be Anastasia, Anna Anderson, moved here to live out her days. She had a childhood friend already here, the son of the Czar's court physician who had proclaimed himself the bishop of the Church of Aphrodite. Anna caught a husband here, local historian Jack Manahan.

A grand duchess deserves a page to herself and we give her one here. (We were friends, so these include personal memories.)

The Dave is in Charlottesville but musicians thrived here long before Dave Matthews. All manner of noted musicians, classical, folk, pop, bluegrass, came and set a spell. It's often the University that attracts them. Folklorist Paul Clayton broke new ground by getting a Masters degree at the University collecting Appalachian folk music.

During the dance band era the University was a mecca for big names playing at the three dance weekends: Openings, Mid-Winters, and Easters. The oldest and grandest of the weekends, Easters, brought in major entertainment beginning in 1915. B. R. Plotnick gave us permission to post his list of the first 50 years of Easters entertainment.

This picture shows Matthews in an early stage appearance with Cosmology, playing a benefit for the local Tandem School.

Dave was raised a Quaker. By coincidence Tandem affiliated with the Society of Friends a few years later to become Tandem Friends School.

Dave's first groups were collaborations with the noted jazz trumpeter John D'Earth and were named Chameleon and Cosmology. The name Dave Matthews Band came after this Cosmology photo in May 1990.

Cropped from the picture due to size were D'Earth and his wife, singer Dawn Thompson.

Dave's band has a charitable trust, the Bama Works, which has funded wonderful things in town.

One of New York's legendary socialites defied the transplant norm. Felicia Warburg Rogan is one of a dozen locals listed in the New York Social Register. A lady of the first order, she kindled re-birth of the Virginia wine industry founded by Jefferson and destroyed by prohibition. If her neighbors were sots they should at least drink Virginia wine.

The third and last of Felicia's three trophy husbands (there was an RCA Sarnoff and a son of FDR before Rogan) founded this area's outstanding hostelry. John Rogan's Boar's Head Inn is one of the most accessible first class inns in the country. A little-known story about it turned up mysteriously. Can one believe this?

Virginia wine? Noted art collector Joe Hirshhorn came to town to buy some David Breeden sculptures in 1981, stayed for a Virginia wine tasting at the Boar's Head Inn, and died the next day. Really. I was there.

But that was 1981. Some local wines are better now. There are a few Virginia whites climbing the stairs toward good French wines, though even our best lack the refinement found in any B&G imported white at half the price.

Our reds? Think of Italian raspy reds, and those are our best. The blending art is not yet mastered.

But Ooh La La! our boasts and prices. The marketing principle is that relatively few Americans know how a good wine should taste and feel, so Virginia vintners create the perception of quality by charging premium prices and making grand claims. Socialite Patricia Kluge carried this to the extreme. She entered wine making by pricing her first efforts at $495 a bottle. Praise the lord.

Down the road doing just that was white robed Sri Swami Satchidananda and his Integral Yoga ashram. He gave the area a contemporary mystic appeal to today's poor little rich with nothing to do. Celebs and non-celebs living a life they don't understand. They have it well but are unable to leave well enough alone. They built him


Yogaville-on-the-James

The swami understood all, and smiled. Before he died in 2002 he observed of his Woodstock generation flock: "They are all searching for the necklace that's around their necks. Eventually they'll look in the mirror and see it." That theme was interestingly executed in this painting by Virginia Canfield in 1981, now in my living room. Look for the necklace.

When he needed R&R from the patients, the swami slipped away to work on an old Caddie, trying not to get the white robe dirty.

Back when there was a USSR and a geography hit list, we were slated for annihilation in WW III because of a US Army spy lab in town. Mikhail Gorbachev ended that crap. In 1993 he confessed he was a great admirer of Thomas Jefferson and celebrated Jefferson's 250th birthday here. We Russians wept with joy that day.

Maybe Gorby ended the cold war to protect Monticello?

Before deciding this is a great place to live or retire there are downsides to know. For example, Virginia laws rank us last in the nation for friendliness to consumers, wage earners, and people outside the mainstream. It doesn't matter who controls the legislature: Democrats for 100+ years or Republicans now, both are anti-consumer, anti worker, bigots. It's our worst tradition.

For example, we are one of only two states that approved the grossly anti-consumer UCITA - the Uniform Computer Information Transactions Act that's so awful even a business-dominated Republican Congress turned it down. It's UCITA that has allowed software licenses to get wildly, wickedly one-sided. Other states are passing laws to specifically exempt their citizens from unfair Virginia laws.

The Virginia State Bar is so anti-consumer that our lawyers go right on practicing law despite - in this 2004 record that came to light - a member reprimanded for mishandling a real estate transaction in 1986, mingling personal funds with a client's in 1990, abandoning a client on the day of trial in 1992, and repeatedly violating the state's rules against legal harassment and intimidation in 1996.

That was not enough for the Bar to take his license but now that he's in jail for beating someone with a baseball bat, he won't be allowed to practice law until he's released.

Virginia has the oldest continuous legislature in the new world and acts like it. American legislative traditions like "You will treat your committee chairman as a deity - or be ignored" began here and are revered. This puts an interesting spin on the state's 1776 motto, Sic Semper Tyrannis - Thus Always to Tyrants. In the legislature, "Sic" means "Reverence."

Perhaps that's why Virginia has executed more people than any other state. The Death Penalty Information Center in DC counted 1,389 executions here between 1608 and July 22, 2004.

There is an unofficial state motto Virginia taught other states. "No man's life or property are safe so long as the legislature is in session." Our law makers are amateurs. We elect "citizen legislators" who sit in session only a couple of months a year. In 2004, lobbyists spent $13.6 million to influence the 140 members. According to filings, the state's largest consumer group spent nothing on lobbying.

It shows.

* Virginia has done away entirely with usury limits on business and investment loans. Consumer loans have outrageous interest caps. For example, the interest rate is around 25% for routine consumer credit from lenders like HFC or Beneficial. A "Payday Loan" costs 15% for two weeks. That's 390% a year and perfectly legal.

* Virginia lets service providers like hospitals require patients to waive the homestead exemption as a condition of admission. Sickness or injury can mean you lose your home to an exorbitant hospital bill, and exorbitant they are.

* If an individual declares personal bankruptcy, Virginia's limit on net worth is $5,000, one of the lowest amounts in the country. If his possessions and the equity in his home total more than that, he loses his home. $5,000? In Florida and Texas it's multi- millions, but that's even worse.

Be aware that Virginia's citizen legislators tend to be affluent people who can afford part-time public service. They come from the provider side of the economy. They have no problem passing laws that kick you when you're down. Those not affluent rely heavily on large contributors. They can least afford to be seen as populist heroes. Populist heroes have no friends in the room where the controlling party leadership gerrymanders district lines every ten years.

It must not be overlooked that Virginia is in the bible belt. Christianity for dummies dominates much of our culture. In 2004 Virginia passed by overwhelming vote (without the governor's signature) the most anti-gay union bill in the country.

In 2006 the State Senate refused to allow localities to voluntarily supplement the salaries of public defenders, if they so chose. Localities have long been allowed to supplement the salaries of prosecutors, however. The Senate doesn't want an even playing field in criminal courts.

How can the Senate tell localities what to do? Because Virginia is under something called the Dillon Rule, which says local government can do nothing without specific permission from the state legislature. Some think of that as government with a slavery mentality. Others see it as protection.

Which brings us to Charlottesville, where the saying "art begins where common sense leaves off" sometimes applies to government.

In 1982 Charlottesville made a startling decision to grow no larger than it was. It land-locked itself forever within its tiny 10.846 mile confines by selling its power of annexation to the surrounding county. The sale was absolute and irreversible so long as the county shares its tax revenue with the city under an easily affordable formula, which it does.

The writer, then living in the county, was hired to sell this Revenue Sharing plan to skeptical county voters who had to approve it. Facing an approval rating of 23% in January, we formed SAFE (Stop Annexation Forever) and asked local artist Charles Peale to create


the Annexation Monster

By voting day he was a familiar face and the voters understood what was at state. Revenue sharing won by a landslide. As a result, between 1982-83 and 2006-07 the county will have given the city $115.9 million. (In 2006 it surpassed $10 million for the first time.)

The truism that expenses rise to exceed income happened almost immediately. But more importantly, the city discovered the perils as well as the joys of no growth.

On the plus side, the city postponed the rendezvous with destiny that uncontrolled reproduction will eventually exact on us all. Its population growth ended. Charlottesville had approx. 40,100 inhabitants in 1990 and 40,099 inhabitants in 2000. (Since then it officially lost population through census finagling.)

All the area growth, and it was substantial, was in surrounding urban and rural areas outside the city limit. Albemarle County's population surged ahead of the city to 84,186.

Cities in Virginia (and only Virginia) are totally independent of counties. They stand or fall on their own. The only way now for Charlottesville to expand rather than stand still or shrink is to crunch what is already here.

We are already here.

This creates shortcomings that are powerful, deeply rooted, and will outlast you.

Because it can no longer expand, Charlottesville no longer has an economically balanced population. With no power to annex middle class suburbs, the percentage of children in Charlottesville public schools eligible for free or reduced-price lunches has soared and is currently between 47% and 52% depending on who's counting. Albemarle County is under 20%. (By comparison, Washington DC, America's entry into the 3d world, has a 75% rate.)

The economic curve here is skewed. Families familiar with the area who can afford a choice of city or county generally choose the county, for good cause: city real estate taxes are 38% higher than those in Albemarle county. For my house, being on the city side of the line costs an extra $1500.

The overall tax burden in the city is slightly above average for the US. The "average" local family will pay close to $8,000 annually in taxes. This compares with $2,106 for low areas like Casper, WY, and $12,627 for places like Bridgeport. CT, according to the Kiplinger web site and adjusted for Virginia's 2006 tax increases.

Thanks to growing property values, taxes are growing much faster than inflation. In the last six years inflation has averaged 2.5% a year. In those same years the city's effective property tax rate rose 4.42%, 5.51%, 6.98%, 8.6%, 11.6%, and 10.7%. For 2006 the increase is around 11%. That's an effective property tax rate increase of 58.81% in seven years. Wages have risen approximately 4% in that period, Social Security much less. Fixed income retirees without ample pensions feel threatened here.

For good cause. In 2006 my realty appraisal went up 25% for a house that had nothing change. The taxes rose dramatically despite a six cent cut in the tax rate.

This will continue, as the Virginia legislature is transferring ever-more unfunded obligations from state government to local government. The city needs to grab and spend every dime it can tax, and find new taxes, we're constantly told. "Charlottesville faces a projected $7 million shortfall a few years down the road," we are promised.

So they tax garbage. You need to buy a sticker for each can. Stickers recently jumped from $52 a year to $94.50.

In order to grow our tax base the city is selling its last remaining downtown parking lots to builders. Would a shopping mall do that? The short-sightedness of it is strangling our downtown mall. There are currently plans afoot to enlarge the mall and eliminate about 500 on-street parking spaces. (That would leave about 7.)

On the other hand, we shrink the available building space with a policy of heritage extremism. This means old buildings must remain essentially as is, at least in appearance, and maintained. As practiced here this goes far beyond architectural and historic heritage. Charlottesville seeks to preserve obsolescence.

The policy as defined in law makes sense. As we do it, it shows what can happen when government embraces cultural elitism. We get the tyranny of the majority.

What happens is this. Any structure built before the birth of the person discussing it is a historic landmark which must be preserved, and may not be torn down and replaced with a useful structure. No definable architectural value or historic importance need be shown for it. The code requirement for justification is ignored. Protection is automatic.

This applies to houses including houses condemned and boarded up as life-threatening, stores and storefronts, even accessory sheds. We once required the preservation of a rotting hen house of no importance because it was old, and someone with power thought it was quaint. And hey, Georgia O'Keefe lived nearby once.

Any plans for repair, maintenance, and modernization must be approved down to the smallest minutiae by a Board of Architectural Review (BAR) who will determine what will be done, and how, and [an example from Feb. 2002] whether the wood you have chosen for your restaurant door may or may not be painted, and what color.

All aspects (aside from cost to the owner) are duly considered but the outcome is pre-determined. Since its inception, committee appointments have gone to historic extremists at the urging of cultural elitists. (BAR has been said to stand for "building architects' revenue.")

If a vacant old hulk is in need of maintenance or repair and the owner fails to do it, the city can have it done and place a lien on the property.

Most of the city that was built prior to 1930 was declared "historic" in this way and suffers powerful controls.

When one buys property here he does not get the bundle of rights that property ownership means elsewhere, including what it means just beyond the city line.

Albemarle County has repeatedly declined such controls, preferring to encourage historic preservation through the incentive of real estate tax breaks. Outside of the ubiquitous urban commercial sprawl that provides its essential tax base, Albemarle has been enormously successful at preservation in the opinion of all but extremists.

Draconian city controls are not for the purpose of making things more attractive. Often they have the opposite result, preserving ugly, inconsequential buildings or city blocks.

Owners wracked with common sense have been known to bulldoze worthless structures in the dead of night, choosing fines and the wrath of city hall in order to erect vitally needed hotels over the opposition of preservation Luddites.

Enforced preservation weighs on realty transactions. Still, despite a high commercial vacancy rate there is general economic vitality downtown. The use of bonds and other public money to assist private development accounts for much of it.

The city is bounded by two rivers and ignores them. They are all but invisible and there's zero use of the waterfront, aside from a footpath. City voices are occasionally heard lecturing the county on what to do on its side of the rivers.

That footpath is a graveled greenbelt nature trail, or was until last year when the city paved it. This year they again used our taxes (remember the $7 million shortfall they promised?) to paint a white line down the middle.

Why? As the newspaper quoted the public servant responsible, "It became apparent with bikes, walkers, and dogs off leash that we need to provide people with some direction to stay to the right." He cited "several incidents in which loose dogs toppled bikers."

The white line is loose dog control!

You read it earlier: government begins where common sense leaves off.

One of the steps seriously contemplated in recent years was revoking city status and reverting to a town. Given our provincialism many thought it was a good idea. We elect down home folks to city council chosen by attitude. Management or business background usually results in a failure to be nominated. The city runs well only because we use the city manager form, hiring professionals to run the place.

So of course some are talking of dumping that and going to the strong mayor system. There's a slogan for that: "Replace the pro with Bozo."

Aside from transportation the pros do ok. Transportation is in a class by itself. In its best days 30 years ago it was the least professional department. Since then it's gone downhill.

Charlottesville is one of the few small cities to make getting around difficult intentionally. The government, elected and professional, doesn't cotton to self-propelled vehicles and goes out of its way to inconvenience them. In some ways it's like life on a resort island reachable by bridges.

Alas, other than having a couple of nifty jitneys running bus routes, we're not an island. We just act like one, with gambits like this:

* "The name without a road." A vitally-needed commuter road, the Meadowcreek Parkway, has been on the drawing board for 36 YEARS! with money to build it. It's remains dead in the water, stalled by an obstructionist city council imposing new requirements when old ones are met. The city plays Lucy to the county's Charlie Brown. "Come kick the football, Charlie Brown."

Without that parkway, a commuter highway linking the populous part of the county to downtown is a modern 4-lane road in the county dwindling to a narrow 2-lane city residential street intentionally encroached by city-installed obstacles.

Obstacles? The city built a matrix of random concrete obstructions reaching into the street. Motorists striking them have turned the road into a dangerous hazard. It was widely predicted this would cause accidents, and does.

At night the concrete obstructions come up as a sudden surprise. On a rainy night they are invisible even when you know they're there. Within months the concrete was covered with rubber scrapings from tires.

The official response to complaints: "People will learn" by striking the curbs. One councilor was open about his mindset, explaining to the press: "The obstructions are designed to disturb drivers and be an inconvenience."

Concrete obstructions are located at intersections, requiring fire engines and school buses to use the entire oncoming lane to make a turn. The same is true of buses when they try to re-enter traffic after a stop. A preposterous debacle.

The police chief reported the obstructions have not reduced speeding, only forced speeders into the oncoming lane. Constant radar patrols are little help. The obstructions make a head-on collision more likely, and expose us to costly liability.

There is talk of adding obstructions to other vital arteries. The official justification: "Pedestrians like it."

* Almost everywhere there are 4-way stop signs at random every few blocks. The stated purpose is "traffic calming."

* Traffic lights may be timed to disrupt rather than smooth the flow. And there are plenty of them. When federal grant money arrives new lights propagate like bamboo in May.

* If huge surges of cars at rush hour require a traffic light at those hours, the light cycles 24 hours a day. Blinking caution during low traffic hours is rejected as an option even when suggested in federal uniform traffic control guidelines.

* A downtown alley incapable of holding more than three cars has a 28-second green light, while on the edge of town a choked up turning lane at a highly congested intersection has a 6-second green light that inevitably leaves cars stacked up waiting to turn. The folks in charge know about these. They want them that way. [2005 update: the 6-second light is now 12 which does the job.]

* A downtown side street serving a few businesses requires tripping an underground detector before the traffic light knows there are cars waiting to get out. The light remains red otherwise. A brick pedestrian crosswalk was installed over the detector. There are no signs posted. Cars must stop and wait for the light five feet short of the detector, so they never trip the switch. After being ignored for a few 4-minute cycles, drivers run the red light.

[Revisited July 16, 2005. The light now cycles without requiring the trip switch.]

* There were, and in some minds still are, plans to convert the busiest downtown intersection into a traffic circle, a move estimated that at rush hour would more than triple the congestion.

We did put traffic circles in some light traffic residential areas, perhaps to prove that good policy in the hands of hicks creates bad examples. We have a classic how-not-to-do-it. It's a traffic circle in the middle of the road usurping so much of the intersection that not even a small moving van can negotiate the turn. A circle half the size would have worked. It's become a role model. Sections of streets at intersections are now blocked off, allowing just enough room for 2 cars to pass. Trucks? Buses? Fire engines? Nope. That requires common sense.

Some of which may have arrived. After suffering for decades through this insult to city management, Charlottesville is now in phase one of a 3-phase, $2 million system to coordinate the city's traffic lights. Not only coordinate them, micromanage them. How do you micromanage a traffic light? For one thing, holding it green few extra seconds to allow a bus to get through, keeping the bus on its time schedule.

If it works, this impressive program will correct many of our traffic deficiencies.

Changes from the top down are almost assured to happen. From the bottom up change is another matter. If a resident needs to call attention to a neighborhood problem, he must now work through layer upon layer of red tape involving Neighborhood Associations ("Step One: Create a Neighborhood Association") before the problem will be heard.

The red tape came to us in 2000 after hundreds of years of easy government accessibility. "Cities do this now," they say when they come back from city planner conventions where the mantra is "don't listen, lead."

Monkey-see, monkey-do.

* At a high traffic exit from a bypass, a two-lane ramp is limited to one lane, with the other lane serving a private residence. It can take 20 minutes to travel 200 yards at commuter time. A traffic light would eliminate the problem. The city knows.

Every government has its quirks. Ours is a transportation policy from hell.

Bicycle lanes abound. Why? We are told "roads cause cars. If you build roads, cars will come. If you build bicycle lanes, bicycles will come." So there are bicycle lanes, but few bicycles.

They are 100% unused in the snow, 99.999% unused in the rain, and 98% unused in the sunshine. Government response: escalate the war on cars.

Their concept, and they are serious about this, is that everyone is capable of biking at all times, and bikes are sufficient for transport needs. They believe biking to work or to shop is a reasonable all-weather choice for locals and visitors, old and young, people transporting children, grocery shoppers, whatever.

Blow that smoke aside and discover we have old-fashioned cronyism with new age cronies, bike-riding counselors with ties to the miniscule bike population. Bicycle theft from the mall is a leading unpublicized crime and a huge annoyance they hope to control with taxpayer bikes.

The concept, a curious one, is that thieves will somehow stop stealing expensive bikes if they can legally take a cheapie. So we had the "borrow bike" program which placed yellow public-use bikes downtown and at the university. Alas, the needy fellow steals a yellow and within three weeks every one disappeared or was vandalized. Supporters called the program a great success. "You can't steal borrow bikes because no one owns them," they explained in their appeal for tax funds to buy more bikes. Maybe it's the drugs.

* To begin the new millennium city council proposed doubling the fees for overtime parking, citing an outsider's study recommending it. Merchants were unified in begging them not to, explaining, as the same study showed, they already lacked adequate parking for shoppers.

Councilors cavalierly dismissed them with the suggestion of building a third parking garage someday.

A few minutes later in the same meeting the council agreed to sell yet another parking lot to a builder. The local daily paper called it "an empty lot" ignoring as not worthy of mention, though the point was raised, that it was one of the last remaining parking lots downtown and perhaps the only free lot left.

A month later when a vote to increase the overtime parking fee came up, council abandoned plans to double the fees and instead tripled them. The biking councilman who pushed that through suggested shoppers should park a half mile away from downtown in free spaces in the city's highest crime neighborhood where personal safety is most at risk from teen gangs.

* Not long ago, at the instigation of a biking councilor and a developer with 41 wooded city acres, this postage stamp city warmed to the sprawl city concepts of "connectivity" and "new urbanism."

This is a means to create "affordable housing" which the laws of capitalist economics dictate will always be in short supply, and it is here as it is throughout the country. The idea is to deflate housing values by removing the amenities in a middle income subdivision. "Connectivity" is the term for changing one-entrance residential subdivisions to multiple entrances, converting quiet residential neighborhoods into shortcuts for through traffic. "Calmed" traffic, of course, with obstructions to plague cars and block delivery trucks.

The one being considered would allow access to the local Interstate highway through one of the city's quietest one entrance subdivisions, trashing desirability and property values. The subdivision included a city councilor's home so the proposal was on hold while she was in office. She's out now. Would you buy a house there under this threat?

Also in that election Hizzoner The Mayor retired.

When he did, it ended his biking trips leading a contingent of bicycle riders down Main Street at rush hour to block traffic, in what he called a show of civic camaraderie. (I didn't make that up.)

Hizzoner's solution to one of the legendary cross town bottlenecks was to propose a highrise in the middle of it, either dead-ending the streets or pretending they aren't there. The project would have overwhelmed a low key commercial-residential neighborhood.

Hizzoner is an architect. It's the project that matters. Unintended consequences are beyond his sympathy. But ah! the public money he sent to out-of-town planners for projects we could never build. Was he was trolling for a job when his term was through?

The council shelved the bottleneck project to keep it out of the news during the election campaign. Without Hizzoner's hand on the tap we can expect this to remain dead.

The controlling Democratic Party, my party, has dominated local government since the late 1960s, and deserves to. There was a surprise in 2002 when a personable Republican Realtor with a distinctive ponytail pulled more votes than a Democrat in a council race. That seldom happens. The losing Dem was an especially outspoken historic preservation extremist.

Republican Party leadership here is embarrassing. In 2004 their losing council candidates were a convicted felon and a newcomer. Nice people, but unconventional backgrounds are not the same thing as qualifications.

Such antics undermine party unity, and contributed to all five precincts in the city voting overwhelmingly for Kerry over Bush in 2004. Even Albemarle County went for Kerry. The rest of Virginia didn't.

Charlottesville and Albemarle have always been gerrymandered into hopelessly conservative congressional districts where our influence is nil. We may rule Charlottesville but we lose every congressional election by a landslide.

If the swing voters in the city tire of one-party rule, as happened in the 1960s, and should Republicans manage to field two or three credible candidates who promise to get roads built and traffic moving, we could see the city briefly return to GOP control. While I hate to see the party lose, there are reasons why we could.

* Despite this being a university town our city public schools barely reach state averages in a state where most schools don't reach national averages. Virginia ranks 37th in public education. Local performance is not for lack of money. The Democrats tripled per-pupil expenditures since the early 90s with no performance improvement.

According to the local daily, for black students, out of the 132 school divisions in the state Charlottesville ranks third from the bottom in English and math. In science, says the paper, city black students rank last in the state.

The same source says that in 2006 Charlottesville High students taking the SATs scored 51 points better than the national average in reading, 18 points better in math and 76 points better in writing.

Beginning in 2005 the city schools moved to mainstreaming, distracting the regular classes with special education kids. That follows the time-honored American tradition of providing the greater good for the smaller number. Whatever else it mainstreaming may do, it quieted an insistent special interest group.

Supposedly fed up with the school board, which in Virginia (alone in the US) has been appointed rather than elected, Charlottesville revolted in November, 2005, and voted overwhelmingly, despite opposition by the dominant Democrats, to change to an elected board when the legislature permitted that local option. In its first election (2006) the winning candidates under the new system were the same ones who would have been appointed under the old.

Albemarle county schools have better reputations, which influences which side of the city line young families concerned about education choose to live. Private schools thrive here, with new ones emerging every few years.

* We have the usual utility taxes every city does, plus a whopping 15% tax on TV cable, one-half named Utility Tax and the other half named Franchise Fee. These regressive taxes remain inviolate despite large budget surpluses in good years. On city council's agenda is raising the utility taxes yet again, perhaps to pay for stop lights and dog roundabouts on the nature path.

* Budget surpluses are to spend. City Council once actually appealed for public suggestions how to squander a half-million dollar surplus.


This was their response to the suggestion not to.

The 2006 surplus was a whopping $9.9 million! Then a year later the surplus was $6.7 million. Since 2000 we've been stripped of more than $20 million in surplus taxes not required to fund the budget. What's going on, is Charlottesville the most profligate city in the nation?

While the answer to that might be yes, it's not the right question to ask. There's something else. Remember the earlier description of the city's Revenue Sharing agreement with Albemarle County? The Revenue Sharing formula rests on the how much each government seizes in taxes from its citizens. By expropriating from us $6.7 million too much his year, next year the city will be able to hit Albemarle for a whopping $13.6 million check.

Revenue Sharing's temptation - urge - reward to over-tax is one of our city's deepest, darkest secrets.

* Whether due to empire building or whatever, taxes fund two separate planning staffs, yet every potential action requires costly outside consultants with commonly less expertise than is found on staff or at the local university. No local official will put his name on a potentially unpopular proposal.

* Frugality? The word is met with derision. It bruises local pride. The constitutional offices are well run and professional, however. This is not your grandfather's South.

* Through a series of retreats and charettes, our government crafted a mission statement based on assumptions reflecting one-party rule. There's no question it's a great mission statement for those of us who accept the assumptions. But can any one party balance all the interests?

Civic secrets:

Due to monopolies and friendly arrangements of long standing, we are being cheated on the costs of concrete products and petroleum. For example, the basic cinderblock used to build a house foundation that is priced in Richmond today at $1.39 costs $1.64 in Charlottesville, 18% more. Gasoline runs 7 to 20 cents per gallon more here than elsewhere in the state.

Living costs rank among the highest in the state, yet local wages are low. The place is wall-to-wall with people willing to sell their services on the cheap.

Despite the area having one of the lowest unemployment rates in the entire world, commonly under 2%, you're out of luck if you're over 60. Age discrimination for good jobs here is near-total. No one wants the elder worker, as our Barbara Ehrenreich learned doing research for her 2006 book on employment, "Bait and Switch: The (Futile) Pursuit of the American Dream."

If you're over 60 and need income you'll have to start a business or take a menial job.

Low wages mean truly competent builders, electricians, plumbers, etc. are scarce. Most of our best technicians work two hours away in prosperous Northern Virginia for double the income.

In addition to uneven workmanship there are colossal blunders. For example in 2001 workers in a large subdivision crossed-connected the community water and sewer systems.

Aside from some common electronics, there is no authorized warranty repair facility for a consumer product within 40 miles.

The range of retail and wholesale items available locally, never much, has been shrinking for 20 years. Internet and catalog shopping is essential to find anything above the commonplace.

A USA Today report was no surprise when it showed Charlottesville tied for 3rd in having the most catalog-loving shoppers in the entire world. The only cities ahead of us are Juneau and Fairbanks in Alaska. (We tied Anchorage.)

Due to decades of inaction and ignored planning, when a drought hit the area in 2002 the water supply red-lined and water use was restricted. After restrictions were lifted the cost for water was up 100%. And it continues to rise.

We have financially strong state-of-the-art Internet providers equaling the best in the world. High tech thrives here, with a massive local infrastructure. We had more than a fair share of dot.com successes and one stupendous failure, Value America.

Every community is made up of people who make things happen, people who watch things happen, and people bewildered by what happened. We have publications to serve them all.

The local Daily Progress serves the first two groups, after a fashion. Founded in 1892, it passed out of local ownership in 1971 into the hands of the Worrell Group who later sold it to Media General, a Republican chain owned by a conservative southern clique with an abominable history of fulminating racism. There's no money in racism anymore so Media General abandoned that 35 years after the Progress did. The Prog swings from not quite OK to OK, not always skirting the edge of superfluous.

Like most routine dailies, the editors treat it as Undertakers Journal. If it bleeds, it leads. So the world outside Central Virginia is obscure bus crashes in Mexico with no local tie-in, train derailments in Bulgaria with no local tie-in, and ferry sinkings in Bangladesh with no local tie-in.

We get the details of every accidental death in the state, from a traffic crash 150 miles away with no local tie-in to a shipyard mishap 180 miles away involving a Texan with no local tie-in. Editing is the weakness. And it's politically corrupt. Headlines saying the GOP won on some issue will appear on stories from Washington saying the GOP lost. Bizarre humor, I guess.

Where the Washington Post can fill a 40-page news hole with national and international news that matters, the daily here can't fill even a few news pages without running feel-good features (with no local tie-in.) It's no surprise they often can't make even four pages available for news. Advertisers get better coverage falling out of the paper with a throwaway than appearing in it. On Sunday the Prog often has more than 20 inserts.

On the positive side, local reporters usually surpass the news editors, it has fine local columnists, and the editorial page is a source of pride. Even those who disagree with its viewpoints admire its rationality and integrity. The page is proof that today, well-educated newcomers far outnumber the native population here. That's a major change; even as late as the 1960s when I was a reporter and columnist there, the editorial page was a monument to provincial ignorance.

The chain's flagship paper is the Richmond Times-Dispatch, a conservative southern institution available for home delivery as are the Washington Post and the NYTimes. Media General has web sites including one for the Prog. Few resource are devoted to these.

Because the daily is content to soak up advertising and not ripple the surface as a news source, there are close to a dozen monthlies and weeklies published here. The oldest weekly, C-ville, is what we expect to find among alternative weeklies: a voice for feminists with an attitude toward other feminists. They combine that with a blind dedication to the proletariat.

The newer Hook achieves more professionalism by aiming for it, while still appealing to an alternative audience. (Hookville is a college nickname for Charlottesville.) The Hook is the only source of investigative reporting on a regular basis.

Both weeklies rely on advocacy journalism - the bias of the reporter reflecting the bias of the editor and publisher - rather than attempting balance.

Both weeklies offer in-depth coverage of important local issues, issues that get superficial treatment in the daily where revolving door editors and reporters whose tenures are measured in months assure they develop no ties, interests, or knowledge of the community. The only exceptions at the daily are the columnists, the editorial page editor, and the sports editors, and it shows.

As expected in a town for writers, articles written for the weeklies are often superb and sometimes essential to grasp what's going on here.

In addition, both weeklies celebrate saloon society, OK, decaf society, and compete at micro-coverage of the arts, music, and nightlife. In an era when tashy taste destroyed all standards, The Hook and Cville are community diaries reflecting what's in, what's out.

Coffee shops and restaurants have multiple copies of a dozen papers for your reading pleasure. We have a huge number of restaurants, dedicated coffee shops, new book stores and used book stores, possibly the highest number per capita in the South of all of those.

For Internet presence of our newspapers, on a scale of 10 the Hook is 9.5, C-ville around 5 and the daily 3. You can see more of the daily if you register and agree to be spammed by their advertisers, but don't. In mid-2006 craigslist opened a full-featured Charlottesville site at http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/ .

There are 30 radio stations that claim we are in their primary or secondary coverage area. Only one, WINA//WQMZ, has a news department. They also air UVa sports. The large number of stations formerly owned by Clear Channel were sold (for half their cost) and frankly, I see no point in keeping up with who owns radio. Chains rob the community of advertising revenue, so local ownership is better.

The eight AM stations are devoted to talk, sports prattle, and gospel. Most of the 22 FM stations are juke boxes for the help.

Non-commercial radio is another story. The University has WTJU-FM devoted to locally produced jazz, pop, classical, and niche programming that's often amazing. I helped start the station in the late 1950s and was its first chief announcer.

At least three places on the dial bring in National Public Radio (NPR) and another carries limited programming from Public Radio International (PRI.)

NPR tells us this area has the nation's highest per capita NPR listenership.

The city has four network TV stations. NBC (here) and PBS (by repeater) had the area to themselves for half a century, then CBS and ABC muscled in in 2005. Fox was available over the air from Richmond but now appears also to be local. Several stations have repeaters here. All the nets are available over the air, via cable, and via satellites. There's a ton of undisclosed HDTV to discover if you have a roof antenna and the right equipment.

TV here has America's usual copy-cat news, all the stations using the identical tedious, unimaginative, insipid format. If it were a law that all TV newscasts must look and sound the same, the industry would raise hell. But they have freedom of choice, so they fall into lock step on their own. Once upon a time Hollywood movie executives were the poster boys for knuckle-headed stupidity. Today it's TV executives.

In 2007 our TV cable company was bought out of receivership by Comcast and it remains to be seen if they are neighborly or greedy. They have a contract to dominate us until 2013.

DirectTV and DishNet satellites are at an elevation of around 23 degrees, not ideal in our hilly terrain but worth a try. My home had tall pines blocking each of them. We cut one for DishNet. No regrets.

There are six movie theaters here, some of them multiplex. They are all too loud and too cold except Vinegar Hill, the downtown art house for foreigns and classics, and the Fork Union Drive-In. Fork Union is a trip.

Another trip is the IMAX theatre 90 minutes away at the Science Museum of Virginia in Richmond.

Charlottesville's upper middle school and high school have a higher percentage of students participating in serious music programs than almost anywhere in the land, and they win gold medals. The emphasis on excellence in music is a tradition here. It's nearly everyplace you look.

Through the University's various concert programs the leading world-class musicians play here, often when on their way up.

The amount of live theatre and awesome talent is staggering. The quality is often amazing. Not infrequently the best scripts of the year are locally written. Seldom is there a weekend without two or three live theatre productions to choose from.

Local theatre enthusiasm is so broad that a 1930s Paramount film palace in the heart of downtown was restored from the foundation to the dome to become a non-profit performing arts center. In 2004 Tony Bennett did the dedication concert. A few blocks away is another performing arts center. It is adjacent to a third performing arts center. Those are distinct from the mall amphitheater two blocks away where musicians play for "Fridays After Five," a weekly summer block party for the community.

None of these is named "Performing Arts Center." That name was reserved for a fourth one at the city high school, recently renamed for MLK.

That's not all. In addition, the university has three concert venues, or four depending on who's counting. Only the UVa football stadium has the capacity (60435) for immensely popular attractions like the Grateful Dead. The new basketball arena can hold 16,000 and won a national award for the best new concert venue in the country to open in 2006.

Don't expect bargains; tickets are high. UVa adopted "You are what you charge" and set its legacy adrift. Now only money talks.

The local Piedmont Virginia Community College makes a respectable cultural splash in all major areas.

Theatrical road companies use the Paramount.

While these theaters are available for anything requiring a stage, the area also has a half-dozen community theatre groups for adults and children, and our public and private schools regularly put on plays including musicals.

Visual art has a ways to go. What was created here to hang on a wall tended to be bland, dull, derivative, but the turn of the century injected creative vigor. Now it's not rare for someone exciting to come along.

Richmond's Virginia Art Museum an hour away has a spectacular collection, and hosts major international exhibits. There are also treasures to be seen at the UVa art gallery, formerly run by the architecture school. A change in management resulted in special exhibits which elevated the UVa gallery to the must-see list.

Perhaps the visual art's highest pinnacle here is the part-time art critic for the daily paper, Ruth Latter. She's been a national treasure for at least four decades. As noted earlier, this is a writer's town and there are plenty of major award winners.

Sculpture has always had a special place here. The community indulged in outstanding over-size equestrian statues eons ago and has an enviable collection. In this era, Biscuit Run Studios is the world center for modern creations in soapstone and has subordinate studios for other media.

The local program "Art in Place" spreads huge sculptures, mostly metal, throughout the community. Winners of a national yearly competition place their statuary on highway medians, at the roadside edge of parks, and other visible areas.


Givens Whale is in my neighborhood

With that exposure, "What the hell is that?" commonly gives way to endearing familiarity. In addition substantial taxes are committed to attractive floral plantings along the roadsides.

Maintaining refinement is not a losing battle here. It's not even hard to do. Some who are fed up with our declining world find living in Charlottesville the best revenge.

Music, theatre, art, and a colorful downtown mall temper one's exasperation. An island for romantics.


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