The Freeware Hall Of Fame

PART I - Charlottesville And Albemarle County

PART II - Strengths and weaknesses

Last updated March 28, 2010

Part I

Charlottesville, Virginia, may be what American cities would be if they had a choice.

It's an island of civilized awareness at the top of the South. People fed up with the declining world find living in Charlottesville the best revenge.

Charlottesville is a romantic city in ways very different from the magnolia and Spanish moss romance of the deep South. That's historical romance. Charlottesville is contemporary, a place for today's romantics. It's even the home of the nation's best gentile bagels.

There's no secret to understanding the Southeast. From 1861 to 1865 many of the region's best and brightest were killed believing they were freedom fighters in the war for Southern independence.

With their land devastated and their economy crippled, the able and ambitious left to seek life's rewards in the North and West, creating a massive brain drain in the South that lasted 100 years.

Later jim crow enveloped the region, rendering the South insufferable to anyone black except the servile, so the able and ambitious African-Americans left also.

Southerners who stayed home were wonderful folks but seldom the swiftest.

For 100 years the South was dominated by badly schooled gentry and barely schooled rednecks who shared a secret pride they were betrayed by god. Their regional culture became affectionately known as Southern Hospitality. Racist, rustic, and polite. Have a ham biscuit.


Early 20th century education here - white >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> vs. black

For a true Southerner there's no such thing as the past. Every true Southerner is a living part of Southern history. Southern heritage is one very long day. The Northern Invasion happened just after breakfast. It's now later that day.

Not that we don't have a lot of folks here who thought they were passing through, paused to stop for lunch, and never left. Some of them are wonderful folks. They may be here for 60 years, be our mayors and councilmen and legislators, even our governor. And when they die, the undertaker will call the family to ask what state the deceased calls home so they can ship the body.

Charlottesville escaped some of that. We were a small Virginia town heavily influenced by superman Thomas Jefferson whose home, Monticello, overlooks us. Thanks to Jefferson, Charlottesville is a holy city to those who cling to democracy as a religion.

In 1819 Jefferson founded The University of Virginia here which has influenced our town ever since. Students (with many lapses) and faculty (with many lapses) compensated somewhat for the local brain drain.

Jefferson also imported artisans from Europe to build his structures, and faculty to staff his university. Many of their descendants are still here, and some artisans are still practicing the family trade.

Thanks to the University and an enlightened post-WW II president named Colgate Darden, by the 1950s the brain drain here was in reverse even as the rest of the South was still leaking.

To this fertile ground Charlottesville attracted and nurtured exotic growths that can seldom be successfully transplanted. For example, the useless off-spring of America's industrial midwest rich settled in the county farmlands around our city.

It is those - our Jefferson implants and wide-ranging transplants - that make Charlottesville and Albemarle County a delicious mini-civilization.

America's inherited rich are not equal. Those who controlled the traditional US industries dwelled in rust belt states. Their most able sons dwell near them. What of the less able sons and daughters, rich but not welcome in corporate board rooms? What of the skipped-over, impotent victims of generation-skipping trusts?

Many came to Albemarle County and stayed. He and she ride to the hounds, insatiably drink, feel endlessly sorry for themselves, and live in a culture dominated by the horse. It the grandest thing that can happen to an area.

Why? Think chain stores and national corporations.

Chain stores and national businesses provide a wonderful addition to the variety and range of shopping when they come to town, and they provide jobs and advertising revenue for local media. The downside is that after the bills are paid, they ship the profits out of state to the home office. The chains suck up local money and spend it expanding elsewhere, along the way distributing some to the founders and investors. This is money snatched out of the home town that generated it.

That's the downside. The upside is that those who reap those profits often spend them where they live, and a lopsided number live here. So national business is not all outflow to us. Most of our wealthy didn't take it from us; they took it from other people and brought it here.

One example: newspaper magnate John Knight married into the horsey set here, yet not even counting the Knight-Ridder chain of newspapers, the owners of more than 125 US daily papers lived in Albemarle County in recent years.

We've been able to rely on this imported wealth for local investment, political and charitable contributions, entertainment, social life, etc. Some is discussed below.

Attracted by mint juleps served in monogrammed silver, celebs have been coming to this enclave for generations. Writers, actors, painters, and all manner of the accomplished came to this land of congeniality. Those who left pretense behind found a welcome.

Aside from passionate southerners, few today care about history. Mentioning celebs like local product S. S. Van Dine, the seminal detective story writer who fled to New York to create Philo Vance (and never came back,) or Southern intellectual James Branch Cabell who succeeded in New York without severing Southern ties, or composers Randall Thompson and John Powell, won't bestir today's reader.

Still, mention should be made of former local color Oskar Hansen, a noted 20th century sculptor and a great character. Those who met Hansen never forgot him. He lived the full lives of three men and then some. Millions see his great sculptures at Hoover Dam, and reproductions of his consumer works were popular at Waynesboro's Virginia Metalcrafters for decades until the firm's collapse. Here's a brief, borrowed, bio which could grow if I have time to scan pictures of his works and add more details.

Current celeb memories perhaps begin with William Faulkner who came here in retirement to ride-to-hound.

Faulkner's grandsons are here, or were. They founded the first local brew pub. It was down the street from where the area's most unusual restaurant was located, John Tuck's legendary Gaslight. Restaurants define local ambience and are defined by it. The Gaslight couldn't have been what it was anywhere else. If you were ever there, this history will bring back memories.

An icon of the 60s, Richard Farina, wrote his book "Been down so long it looks like up to me" in a house on University circle a few doors from where "Anastasia" would live later in the decade. He and Carolyn Hester, the sweetest folk singer of the time, perhaps all time, lived here in 1960-61. Later Dick traded her in for Joan Baez's sister, Mimi. Dick played the bit part of Dr. McGuire in the Thomas Wolfe bioplay "Look Homeward, Angel" with the Virginia Players. While she was here, Hester recorded her name title album, perhaps her best.

The test pressing survives.

Writer Rita Mae Brown came here as Martina Navratilova's companion. The tennis star moved on (athletes tend to) but Rita stayed to ride-to-hound, telling us (as everyone before her had,) "If the world were a logical place, men would ride side-saddle."

John Grisham and John Casey write their novels here. Grisham is a generous civic benefactor and active Democrat. IMO it's just a matter of time before he seeks office. Former poet laureate Rita Dove writes her poems here and often lends her presence to projects. The late Mary Lee Settle's wonderful books were penned here for years. Grand Master short story writer Peter Taylor bought Faulkner's house and ended his teaching and writing career here, trying to teach his craft to scores of us.

When Ian Fleming died, his estate chose someone to continue writing the James Bond novels. The guy instantly moved here. When someone was finally commissioned to write a sequel to Gone With The Wind, it was someone here, Alexandra Ripley. (Did anyone read "Scarlett?")

The great New York Herald Tribune TV critic John Crosby retired here. He defined forever the problems facing a TV critic when he said in 1955: "He is forced to be literate about the illiterate, witty about the witless and coherent about the incoherent."

Sports celeb Howie Long calls this home, as do Mr. and Mrs. Jack Fisk (Sissy Spacek) and WKRP's Venus Flytrap, Tim Reid. Sissy is a model of civic involvement, lending her support where appropriate.

Caveat: if you recognize a famous face on the street or in the supermarket do not ask for an autograph. Ever. Mind your own business. We know that is impossible for Americans but at least try.


Muhammad Ali, shown here in 1987 with one of my kids, had a farm in a neighboring county.

For as long she could stand Sam Shepard pinching every waitress, Jessica Lange lived here with him. Alan Alda had a place nearby.

When John Kluge's broadcast properties were sold to make the Fox network, John brought his 7 billion here and the area ramped up to resemble Palm Springs East. Grand parties, celeb helicopters, heights of vacuity Faulkner never imagined until he read F. Scott Fitzgerald.

With no ostentation whatever, billionaire mensch Edgar Bronfman moved in, perhaps to be near his daughter and granddaughters. Very different style. Kluge favored a Volvo limo and had two of them; Bronfman drives beat-up wheels, around here at least. Both have been wonderfully generous to the University.

Multi-multi-millionaire widows move here for the company. The Cities Service widow lives and invests here, as does the Schenley widow. There's an heiress to downtown Palm Beach with a husband named Merlin.

When all her glitter turned to dross, the leading claimant to be Anastasia, Anna Anderson, moved here to live out her days. She had a childhood friend already here, the son of the Czar's court physician, Gleb Bodkin, who had proclaimed himself the bishop of the Church of Aphrodite. Anna caught a husband here, local historian Jack Manahan.

A grand duchess who lived the Cinderella story in reverse deserves a page to herself and we give her one here. (We were friends, so these include personal memories.)

The Dave is in Charlottesville but musicians thrived here long before Dave Matthews. All manner of noted musicians, classical, folk, pop, bluegrass, came and set a spell. It's often the University that attracts them. Folklorist Paul Clayton broke new ground by getting a Masters degree at the University collecting Appalachian folk music.

During the dance band era the University was a mecca for big names playing at the three dance weekends: Openings, Mid-Winters, and Easters. The oldest and grandest of the weekends, Easters, brought in major entertainment beginning in 1915. Magazine editor B. R. Plotnick gave us permission to post his list of the first 50 years of Easters entertainment.

This picture shows Dave Matthews in an early stage appearance with Cosmology, playing a benefit for the local Tandem School.

Dave was raised a Quaker. By coincidence Tandem affiliated with the Society of Friends a few years later to become Tandem Friends School.

Dave's first groups were collaborations with the noted jazz trumpeter John D'Earth and were named Chameleon and Cosmology. The Dave Matthews Band came after this Cosmology photo in May 1990.

Cropped from the picture due to size were D'Earth and his wife, singer Dawn Thompson.

Dave's band has a charitable trust, the Bama Works, which is funding wonderful things in town.

One of New York's legendary socialites defied the transplant norm. Felicia Warburg Rogan is one of a dozen locals listed in the New York Social Register. A lady of the first order, she kindled re-birth of the Virginia wine industry founded by Jefferson and destroyed by prohibition. If her neighbors were sots they should at least drink Virginia wine.

Years passed. The winery's been sold and is under new management.

The third and last of Felicia's three trophy husbands, John Rogan, (before him she had an RCA Sarnoff and a son of FDR) founded this area's outstanding hostelry. John Rogan's Boar's Head Inn is one of the most accessible first class inns in the country. A little-known story about it turned up mysteriously. Can one believe this?

Virginia wine? Noted art collector Joe Hirshhorn came to town to buy some David Breeden sculptures in 1981, stayed for a small, private wine tasting at the Boar's Head Inn, and died the next day. Really. I was at the next table.

But that was 1981. Some local wines are better now. There are a few Virginia whites climbing the stairs toward good French wines, though even our best lack the refinement found in any B&G imported white at half the price.

Our reds? Think of the revolting "Blood of the Bulls" wines of the Balkans, foul gloop clawing its way down your throat. The skill of red wine-making takes generations.

But Ooh La La! our boasts and prices. The marketing principle is that few Americans know good wine from bad, so Virginia vintners spin the perception of quality by charging premium prices and making grand claims. Socialite ex-Kluge Patricia Moses carried this to the extreme. She began wine production by pricing her first effort at $495 a bottle. Praise the lord.

Doing just that down the road was white robed Sri Swami Satchidananda and his Integral Yoga ashram. He gave the area a contemporary mystic appeal to today's poor little rich with nothing to do. Celebs and non-celebs living a life they don't understand. They have it well but are unable to leave well enough alone. They built him


Yogaville-on-the-James

The swami understood all, and smiled. Before he died in 2002 he observed of his Woodstock generation flock: "They are all searching for the necklace that's around their necks. Eventually they'll look in the mirror and see it." That theme was interestingly executed in this painting by Virginia Canfield in 1981, now hanging in my living room. Look for the necklace.

When he needed R&R from the patients, the swami slipped away to work on an old Caddie, trying not to get the white robe dirty.

Back when there was a USSR and a geography hit list, we were slated for annihilation in WW III because of a US Army spy lab in town. Mikhail Gorbachev ended that crap. In 1993 he confessed he was a great admirer of Thomas Jefferson and celebrated Jefferson's 250th birthday here. We Russians wept with joy that day.

Maybe Gorby ended the cold war to protect Monticello?

Before deciding this is a great place to live or retire there are downsides to know. For example, Virginia laws rank us last in the nation for fairness to consumers, wage earners, and people outside the mainstream. It doesn't matter who controls the legislature: Democrats for 100+ years or Republicans now, both are anti-consumer, anti labor. It's the Virginia curse.

For example, we are one of only two states that approved the grossly anti-consumer UCITA - the Uniform Computer Information Transactions Act that's so awful even a business-dominated Republican Congress decried it. It's UCITA that has allowed software licenses to get wildly, wickedly one-sided. It's so bad that other states are passing laws to specifically exempt their citizens from unfair Virginia laws!

The Virginia State Bar is so anti-consumer that our lawyers go right on practicing law despite - in this 2004 record that came to light - a member getting a slap on the wrist for: (a) mishandling a real estate transaction in 1986, (b) mingling personal funds with a client's in 1990, (c) abandoning a client on the day of trial in 1992, and (d) repeatedly violating the state's rules against legal harassment and intimidation in 1996.

That was not enough for the Bar to revoke or even suspend his license. But now that he's in jail for beating someone with a baseball bat, he won't be allowed to practice law until he's released.

Virginia has the oldest continuous legislature in the new world and acts like it. American legislative traditions like "You will treat your committee chairman as a deity - or be ignored" began in this state and are revered. This puts an interesting spin on the state's 1776 motto, Sic Semper Tyrannis - Thus Always to Tyrants. In our legislature, "Sic" means "Reverence."

Perhaps that's why Virginia has executed more people than any other state. The Death Penalty Information Center in DC counted 1,389 executions here between 1608 and July 22, 2004.

There is an unofficial state motto Virginia taught other states. "No man's life or property are safe so long as the legislature is in session." Our law makers are 140 amateurs. We elect "citizen legislators" who sit in session only a couple of months a year. In 2004, lobbyists spent $13.6 million to influence those 140 people. That's almost $100,000 head turning dollars per member.

According to filings, the state's largest consumer group spent zero on lobbying.

It shows.

* Virginia has done away entirely with usury limits on business and investment loans. Consumer loans have outrageously high interest caps that are out-lawed as loansharking elsewhere.

* Virginia lets service providers like hospitals require patients to waive the homestead exemption as a condition of admission. Sickness or injury can mean you lose your home to an exorbitant hospital bill, and exorbitant they are.

* If an individual declares personal bankruptcy, Virginia's limit on net worth is $5,000, one of the lowest amounts in the country. If his possessions and the equity in his home total more than $5,000, he loses his home. In Florida and Texas you're allowed to keep several million in net worth. The sane states have something in between that makes sense. Virginians prefer cruelty to humanity.

That could be because Virginia's part-time legislators tend to be affluent people who can afford part-time public service. They come from the provider side of the economy, or are lawyers. They have no problem passing laws to make the affluent feel morally superior. The few not affluent are totally dependent on large contributors. No one can afford to be a populist though some make a pretense of it. Populists have no friends in the room when the controlling party gerrymanders district lines every ten years.

It must not be overlooked that Virginia is in the bible belt. Christianity for dummies dominates our rural culture. Jerry Falwell and Pat Robertson were local boys. In 2004 Virginia passed by overwhelming vote (without the governor's signature) the most anti-gay marriage bill in the country.

Kick people who are down? In 2006 the State Senate refused to allow local governments to voluntarily supplement the salaries of underpaid public defenders. Localities can only supplement the salaries of prosecutors. Do you understand that? The Senate majority opposes an even playing field in our criminal courts.

How can the Senate tell localities what to do? Because Virginia is under the "Dillon Rule" which says local government can do nothing without specific permission from the state legislature. That's repression from the Jim Crow era. The only Jim Crow laws that changed here were changed by the US Congress, the US Department of Justice, and the courts, not the Virginia legislature.

Which brings us to Charlottesville, where the saying "art begins where common sense leaves off" sometimes applies to government.

In 1982 Charlottesville made a startling decision to grow no larger than it was. It land-locked itself forever within its modest 10.846 mile confines by selling its power of annexation to the surrounding county. The sale was absolute and irreversible so long as the county shares its tax revenue with the city under an easily affordable formula, which it does.

The writer, then living in the county, was hired to sell this Revenue Sharing plan to skeptical county voters who had to approve it. Facing an approval rating of only 23% in a poll a few months before the vote, we formed SAFE (Stop Annexation Forever) and asked local artist Charles Peale to create


the Annexation Monster

By voting day he was a familiar face and the voters understood what was at state. Revenue sharing and immunity from annexation won by a landslide. As a result, between 1982-83 and 2006-07 the county has given the city $115.9 million. The year 2006 surpassed $10 million for the first time.

The truism that expenses rise to exceed income happened almost immediately. But more importantly, the city discovered the perils as well as the joys of no growth.

On the plus side, the city postponed the rendezvous with destiny that uncontrolled reproduction will exact on us all someday. The city's population growth ended. Charlottesville had approx. 40,100 inhabitants in 1990 and 40,099 inhabitants in 2000. (Since then it officially lost population through census finagling.)

All the area growth, and it's been substantial, was in urban and rural areas outside the city. Albemarle County's population surged ahead of the city to 84,186, more than double Charlottesville's.

Cities in Virginia are totally independent of counties. Virginia is unique that way. Cities stand or fall on their own. The only way now for Charlottesville to expand rather than stand still or shrink is to crunch what is already here.

We are already here.

This creates attitudes that are powerful, deeply rooted, and will outlast you.

Because it can no longer expand, Charlottesville no longer has an economically balanced population. With no power to annex middle class suburbs, the percentage of children in Charlottesville public schools eligible for free or reduced-price lunches has soared and is currently between 47% and 52% depending on who's counting. Albemarle County is under 20%. (By comparison, Washington DC, America's foot in the 3d world, has a 75% rate.)

The economic curve here is skewed. Families familiar with the area who can afford a choice of city or county generally choose the county, for good cause: city real estate taxes are 38% higher than those in Albemarle county. For my house, being on the city side of the line costs an extra $1500 in tax.

The overall tax burden in the city is slightly above average for the US. The "average" local family will pay close to $8,000 annually in taxes. This compares with $2,106 for low areas like Casper, WY, and $12,627 for places like Bridgeport. CT, according to the Kiplinger web site and adjusted for Virginia's 2006 tax increases.

Thanks to growing property values, taxes were growing much faster than inflation. In the last six years inflation has averaged 2.5% a year. In those same years the city's effective property tax rate rose 4.42%, 5.51%, 6.98%, 8.6%, 11.6%, and 10.7%. For 2006 the increase is around 11%. That's an effective property tax rate increase of 58.81% in seven years. Wages have risen approximately 4% in that period, Social Security much less. Fixed income retirees without ample pensions are in jeopardy here.

In 2006 my realty appraisal went up 25% for a property where nothing changed in a neighborhood where nothing changed. The taxes rose dramatically despite a six cent cut in the tax rate.

This will continue, as the Virginia legislature is transferring ever-more unfunded obligations from state government to local government. The city needs to grab and spend every dime it can tax, and find new taxes. "Charlottesville faces a projected $7 million shortfall a few years down the road," we were promised.

So they tax garbage. You need to buy a sticker for each can. Stickers recently jumped from $52 a year to $94.50.

In order to grow our tax base the city is selling its last remaining downtown parking lots to builders. Would a shopping mall do that? The short-sightedness of it is strangling our downtown mall. There are those who would enlarge the mall and eliminate about 500 on-street parking spaces. (That would leave about 7, all for handicapped.)

On the other hand, we shrink the available building space with a policy of heritage extremism. This means old buildings must remain essentially as is in appearance, and be maintained. As practiced here preservation goes beyond architectural and historic heritage. Charlottesville seeks to preserve obsolescence.

The policy as defined in law makes sense. But as we do it, it shows what happens when government is in the grip of cultural elitism. We get the tyranny of the dilettante.

What happens is this. Any structure built before the birth of the person discussing it is a priori a historic landmark which must be preserved. It may not be torn down and replaced with a useful structure. No definable architectural value or historic importance need be shown. The code requirement to justify preservation is a sham. Protection is inevitable.

This applies to nondescript condemned houses boarded up, rotting, and infested with termites; repellent old stores and storefronts, even accessory sheds.

We once actually demanded the preservation of a rotting hen house of no importance simply because it had some age and someone in power thought it was "quaint." That was his word in preventing the creation of student housing in the heart of the area zoned for that. And hey, Georgia O'Keefe once lived nearby, so her name was brought in to muddy the water.

Any plans for repair, maintenance, and modernization must be approved down to the smallest detail by a Board of Architectural Review (BAR) who will determine what will be done, and how, and [an example from Feb. 2002] whether the wood you have chosen for your Fellini's Restaurant door may or may not be painted, and what color, and which brand of paint.

All aspects - except co$t to the owner or owner's rights - are discussed at length but the outcome is pre-determined. Since the inception of the BAR, its appointments went to historic extremists at the urging of cultural elitists. (Not without cause, BAR is said to mean "Building Architects' Revenue.")

If the owner of a vacant, decrepit, useless, hulk fails to weatherize it, the city can have it done and place a lien on the property.

Most of the city that was built prior to 1930 was declared "historic" in this way and owners are bound by powerful controls.

When one buys property here he does not get the bundle of rights that property ownership has meant in America, including what it means beyond the city line.

Albemarle County declines all such controls, preferring to encourage historic preservation through the incentive of real estate tax breaks. Outside of the ubiquitous urban commercial sprawl that provides its tax base, Albemarle has been successful at preservation in the opinion of all but extremists.

Draconian city controls are not for the purpose of making things more attractive. Often they have the opposite result, preserving ugly, inconsequential buildings or city blocks.

Builders overcome with common sense have been known to bulldoze worthless structures in the night, accepting fines and the wrath of city hall in order to erect vitally needed new buildings over the obstinacy of preservation Luddites.

Pernicious preservation obstructs realty transactions. Still, despite a high commercial vacancy rate there is general economic vitality downtown. Bonds and other public money assisting the private sector accounts for much of it.

The city is bounded by two small rivers and ignores them. They are all but invisible and there's no waterfront, aside from a footpath. City voices occasionally rise to lecture the county on what to do on its side of the water.

That footpath was a graveled greenbelt nature trail until the city paved it. No joke. They squandered taxes (despite the threatened $7 million shortfall) to paint a white line down the middle of the footpath.

Why? The newspaper quoted the public servant responsible: "It became apparent with bikes, walkers, and dogs off leash that we need to provide people with some direction to stay to the right." He cited "several incidents in which loose dogs toppled bikers."

The white line tells dogs which side to stay on.

You read it earlier: sometimes government begins where common sense leaves off.

One of the steps seriously contemplated in recent years was revoking city status, giving up the charter, and reverting to a town. Given our provincialism it wasn't a bad idea. We elect down home folks to city council chosen by their attitude. Management or business background usually results in a failure to win party nomination. The city runs well only because we use the city manager form, hiring professionals to run the place.

So of course some are talking of dumping that and going to the strong mayor system. "Replace the pro with Bozo." That's actually a plank in the 2009 GOP platform. It's no surprise they can't field a candidate for local office.

Aside from transportation the pros do ok. Transportation is in a class by itself. This is a hard city to move cars through, and anti-vehicle Luddites in and out of government want it even worse.

Charlottesville is one of the few small cities to make getting around difficult intentionally. The government doesn't cotton to private vehicles and goes out of its way to inconvenience drivers. They treat the city's arteries like a resort island reached only by bridges.

Alas, other than having a couple of nifty jitneys running bus routes, we're not an island. But witness these gambits:

* "The name without a road." A vitally-needed commuter road, the Meadowcreek Parkway, has been on the drawing board for 38 YEARS with money to build it. It's been stalled all this time by an obstructionist city council that imposes new requirements when the old ones are met.

While the county is now finally constructing it's portion of the parkway, citizen Luddites are smothering the city with obstructionism.

Without that parkway, a highway linking the populous part of the county to downtown is a 4-lane road in the county dwindling to a narrow 2-lane city residential street intentionally encroached by city-installed obstacles.

Obstacles? The city built a matrix of random concrete abutments reaching into the street. Motorists strike them constantly. It was widely predicted this would cause accidents, and it does.

At night the concrete obstructions come up as a sudden surprise. On a rainy night they are invisible even when you know they're there. Within months the concrete was covered with rubber scraped from tires.

The official response to complaints: "People will learn" by striking the curbs. One councilor was open about his mindset, explaining to the press: "The obstructions are designed to disturb drivers and be an inconvenience."

Concrete obstructions are located at intersections, requiring fire engines and school buses to use the entire oncoming lane to make a turn. The same is true of buses when they try to re-enter traffic after a stop. A preposterous debacle.

The police chief reported the obstructions have not reduced speeding, only forced speeders into the oncoming lane. Constant radar patrols are little help. The obstructions make a head-on collision more likely, and expose taxpayers to costly liability.

There is talk of adding obstructions to other arteries. The official justification: "Pedestrians like it."

* Throughout the city there are random 4-way stop signs every few blocks. The stated purpose is "traffic calming." The result: hundreds of gallons of gasoline needlessly wasted every day.

* Traffic lights may be timed to disrupt rather than smooth the flow. And there are plenty of them. When federal grant money arrives, new lights propagate like bamboo after a spring rain.

* If the car count at commuter time justifies a traffic light under federal uniform traffic control guidelines, the light works 24 hours a day. Blinking caution during low traffic hours, the sensible option, is rejected.

* A short downtown alley incapable of holding more than three cars has a 28-second green light, while on the edge of town a choked up turning lane at a highly congested intersection has a 6-second green light that inevitably leaves cars stacked up waiting to turn. The folks in charge know about these. They want them that way. The city is installing cameras to impose fines on people who think lights are there to improve traffic flow.

* A downtown side street serving a few businesses requires tripping an underground detector to change the light to green. The light remains red otherwise. A brick pedestrian crosswalk was installed over the detector. Cars must stop before the crosswalk, five feet short of the detector, Ergo they can't trip the switch. There are no signs posted. After being ignored long enough, drivers run the red light.

[Revisited. The light now cycles without requiring the trip switch.]

* There were, and in some minds still are, plans to convert the busiest downtown intersection, and one that actually works ok, into a traffic roundabout, a move estimated that at rush hour would triple the congestion and delays.

We did put traffic circles in some residential areas, only to prove that bad policy creates bad examples. We have a classic how-not-to-do-it. It's an over-size traffic circle in the middle of an intersection, occupying so much of the road that a moving van can't negotiate the turn. No bus can go there. What was called for was a circle half the size. And they allow parking. Of course a transportation Luddite leaves a car in the narrowest place all day and night despite better parking close by.

Elsewhere in town parts of intersections are blocked off to allow barely enough room for 2 cars to pass. Trucks? Buses? Fire engines? What for?

After suffering five decades of this insult to good management, Charlottesville is now involved in a 3-phase, $2 million system to coordinate the city's traffic lights. Not only coordinate them, micromanage them. How do you micromanage a traffic light? By holding it green a few extra seconds to allow a bus to get through, keeping traffic flowing and the bus on schedule.

If it's set-up properly and if it's allowed to work, and if people in the control room pay attention, this impressive program could correct many of our transportation deficiencies.

Maybe.

Recently I spent 18 minutes waiting for a green light while one EMS vehicle after another reset traffic control back to step one, preventing a 4 phase light from completing a cycle. These devices do not HAVE to default to total reset. Seems Charlottesville's destiny is to make one bad choice after another.

* Changes from the top down are almost assured to happen. From the bottom up change is another matter. If a resident needs to call attention to a neighborhood problem, he's supposed to work through layer upon layer of red tape involving Neighborhood Associations ("Step One: Create a Neighborhood Association") before the problem can be heard.

The red tape came to us in 2000 after hundreds of years of small town government accessibility. "Cities are doing this now," we're told when staff and councillors come back from collegial city management conventions where the mantra is "Don't listen. Tell."

* At a high traffic exit from a bypass, a two-lane ramp is limited to one lane. The other lane serves a private residence as a second driveway access. At 4 PM on a weekday it can take 20 minutes to travel 200 yards up that ramp. A traffic light and use of both lanes would eliminate the problem. They know.

Every government has its quirks. Ours is transportation Luddites and a game plan from hell.

Bicycle lanes abound. Why? Luddites tell us, "Roads cause cars. If you build roads, cars come. If you build bicycle lanes, bicycles come." So they built bike lanes, but bicycles did not come. They didn't build roads but cars came just the same.

Bike lanes are 100% unused at night, 100% unused in the snow, 99% unused in the rain, and 98% unused in the sunshine. Luddite response: escalate the war on cars.

Their concept, and they are serious about this, holds that everyone young and old is capable of biking at all times, day and night, in any climate and weather, and bike transport is all that's needed. They believe biking to work or to shop is an all-weather choice for locals and visitors. They believe mother can take her kiddies on a bike and come back from the supermarket with 5 bags of groceries in the snow in perfect safety.

Blow that smoke aside and discover we have old-fashioned cronyism with new age cronies: bike-riding counselors with ties to the Luddite bike population.

And guess what. It turns out that new age cronyism is no better than traditional cronyism. Their hand is in our wallet to fund their special interest, bicycle theft. Bike theft around town is a leading crime and a huge annoyance they hoped to control with taxpayer bikes.

The concept was simple enough: thieves will stop stealing expensive bikes from private owners if they can legally take a worthless cheapie funded by taxpayers. So we had the "borrow bike" program which placed yellow public-use bikes downtown and at the university.

Alas, the needy fellow steals a yellow and within three weeks every bike disappeared or was vandalized. Wonky supporters called the program a great success. "You can't steal borrow bikes because no one owns them," they explained in their appeal for tax funds to buy more bikes.

Could it be the drugs?

* To begin the new millennium city council proposed doubling the fee for overtime parking, citing an outsider's study recommending it. (Always hire outsiders. No one who lives here would suggest that.) Merchants were unified in begging them not to, explaining, as the same study showed, they already lacked adequate parking for shoppers.

Councilors cavalierly dismissed them with the suggestion of building a third parking garage someday.

A few minutes later in the same meeting the council agreed to sell yet another parking lot to a developer. The local daily called it "an empty lot" ignoring as not worthy of mention, though the point was raised, that it was one of the last remaining flat parking lots downtown and perhaps the only free lot left.

A month later when a vote to increase the overtime parking fee came up, council abandoned plans to double the fee and instead tripled it. The biking councilman who pushed that through suggested shoppers should park a half mile away from downtown in free spaces in the city's highest crime neighborhood where personal safety is at risk from teen gangs.

* Not long ago, at the instigation of a biking councilor and a developer who owns 41 wooded acres, this postage stamp city warmed to the sprawl city concepts of "connectivity" and "new urbanism."

This is a means to create "affordable housing" which the laws of capitalist economics dictate will always be in short supply, and it is here as it is throughout the country. The idea in this instance was to deflate housing values in a middle income subdivision by removing the major amenity that made it desirable. "Connectivity" was the tool to be used.

Change a one-entrance subdivision to multiple entrances, converting quiet, low traffic, streets into shortcuts for through traffic.

"Calmed" traffic, to be sure, with obstructions to plague drivers and block service vehicles.

The plan called for access to the local interstate highway through one of the city's quietest one entrance subdivisions, bringing down property values to create "affordable housing." The subdivision included a city councilor's home so the proposal died a quick death.

Hizzoner The Mayor helped the idea along. That particular mayor is well-retired now but he was a sketch.

When in office, he led groups of bicycle riders down Main Street at rush hour to block traffic, in what he called a "show of civic camaraderie." (I didn't make that up.)

Hizzoner's solution to one of the legendary cross town bottlenecks was to propose a highrise in the middle of it, either dead-ending the streets or pretending they aren't there. The project would have overwhelmed a low key commercial-residential neighborhood.

Hizzoner is an architect and only the edifice matters. Unintended consequences are beyond his notice. But ah! the public money he sent to out-of-town planners for projects we could never build. Was he trolling for a personal career move? Seemed that way.

The council shelved Project Bottleneck. Without Hizzoner's hand on the money tap this should remain dead.

The controlling Democratic Party, my party, has totally dominated local government since the late 1960s, and deserves to. There was a surprise in 2002 when a personable Republican Realtor with a ponytail pulled more votes than a Democrat in a council race. That seldom happens. The losing Dem was an outspoken historic preservation extremist.

Republican Party leadership here is embarrassing. Two of their recent losing council candidates were a convicted felon and a newcomer to the city. Nice people, but unorthodox backgrounds are not the same thing as qualifications.

Such antics undermine party unity, and contributed to all the city precincts voting overwhelmingly for Kerry over Bush in 2004. Even Albemarle County went for Kerry. The rest of Virginia did not.

For as long as anyone remembers, Charlottesville and Albemarle have been gerrymandered into redneck rural congressional districts to make sure our influence is nil. We rule Charlottesville but we lose every congressional election by a landslide. Then finally in 2008 Republican mis-management was too much for even this district, and a Democratic challenger pulled a handful more votes than the GOP incumbent. So we have a Democrat in Congress. For now. In a couple of years we have another redistricting, and the Republicans will take Charlottesville away from him.

If the swing voters in the city tire again of one-party rule, as happened in the 1960s, and should Republicans manage to field credible candidates who promise to get roads built and traffic moving, we could see the city briefly return to GOP control. While I hate to see my party lose, there are reasons why we could.

* Despite this being home to the state university, our city public schools barely reach state averages in a state where most schools don't reach national averages. Virginia ranks 37th in public education. Local performance is not for lack of money. The Democrats tripled per-pupil expenditures since the early 90s with no performance improvement.

According to the local daily, for black students, out of the 132 school divisions in the state Charlottesville ranks third from the bottom in English and math. In science, says the paper, city black students rank last in the state. Some think that's one of the effects of mainstreaming because it keeps teachers occupied with low achievers.

The same source says that in 2006 Charlottesville High students taking the SATs scored 51 points better than the national average in reading, 18 points better in math and 76 points better in writing.

Beginning in 2005 the city schools moved to mainstreaming, distracting the regular classes with special education kids. That follows the time-honored American tradition of providing the greater good for the smaller number. Whatever else mainstreaming may do, it quiets one special interest group while arousing another.

Supposedly fed up with the school board, which in Virginia (alone among the 50 states) has been appointed rather than elected, Charlottesville revolted in November, 2005, and voted overwhelmingly, despite opposition by the Democrats, to change to an elected board when the legislature permitted that local option. In its first election (2006) the winning candidates under the new system were the same people who would have been appointed under the old.

Albemarle county schools have better reputations, which influences which side of the city line young families concerned about education choose to live. Private schools thrive here, with new ones emerging every few years.

* We have the usual utility taxes every city does, plus a whopping 15% tax on TV cable, one-half named Utility Tax and the other half named Franchise Fee. These regressive taxes remain inviolate despite large budget surpluses in good years. On city council's agenda is raising the utility taxes yet again, perhaps to pay for 24-hour-a-day dog stop lights on the nature path.

* Budget surpluses are to spend. City Council once actually appealed for public suggestions how to squander a half-million dollar surplus.


This was their response to the suggestion not to.

The 2006 surplus was serious money, a whopping $9.9 million. Then a year later the surplus was $6.7 million. Since 2000 we've been stripped of more than $20 million in surplus taxes not required to fund the budget. What's going on, is Charlottesville the most profligate city in the nation?

While the answer to that might be yes, it's not the right question to ask. There's something else. Remember the city's Revenue Sharing agreement with Albemarle County? The complex Revenue Sharing formula rests on the how much each government seizes in taxes from its citizens. By expropriating from us $6.7 million too much this year, next year the city will be able to hit Albemarle for a whopping $13.6 million.

Revenue Sharing's temptation - almost a requirement - for city council to over-tax us is our city's deepest, darkest secret. Now you know.

* And so much is wasted. Whether due to empire building or whatever, taxes fund two separate planning staffs, yet every potential action requires costly outside consultants with usually less expertise than is found on staff or at the local university.

That's about courage. No local official will put his name on a proposal that might prove unpopular.

* Frugality? The word is met with derision. It bruises local pride. We spend with the big boys. An obligation to over-tax carries an obligation to over-spend.

The constitutional offices - Treasurer, Commissioner of Revenue, etc. - are well run and professional, however. This is not your grandfather's South.

* Through a series of retreats and charettes, our government crafted a mission statement based on assumptions reflecting one-party rule. There's no question it's a great mission statement for those of us who accept the assumptions. But can any one party balance all the interests?

More civic secrets:

Due to monopolies and greed, we are charged inflated prices for concrete products and petroleum. For example, the basic cinderblock used in construction costs 18% more in Charlottesville than in Richmond. Year after year, gasoline runs 7 to 20 cents per gallon more in Charlottesville than elsewhere in the state.

Living costs rank among the highest in Virginia, yet local wages are low. The place is wall-to-wall with people selling their services on the cheap because they have to.

Despite the area having one of the lowest unemployment rates in the entire world, commonly under 2%, you're out of luck if you're over 60. Age discrimination for good jobs here is near-total. No one wants the elder worker, as local writer Barbara Ehrenreich learned doing research for her 2006 book on employment, "Bait and Switch: The (Futile) Pursuit of the American Dream."

If you're over 60 and need income you'll have to start a business or take a menial job.

Low wages mean truly competent builders, electricians, plumbers, etc. are scarce. Many good technicians commute two hours away to prosperous Northern Virginia for double the income.

In addition to uneven workmanship there are colossal blunders. For example in 2001 workers in a large subdivision actually crossed-connected the community water and sewer systems.

Aside from some common electronics and a Best Buy "Geek Squad," there is no authorized warranty repair facility for a consumer product within 40 miles.

The range of retail and wholesale items available locally, never much, has been shrinking for 20 years. Internet and catalog shopping is essential to find anything above the commonplace.

A USA Today report was no surprise when it showed Charlottesville tied for 3rd in having the most catalog-loving shoppers in the entire world. The only cities ahead of us are Juneau and Fairbanks in Alaska. (Charlottesville tied Anchorage.)

Due to decades of inaction and ignored planning, when a drought hit the area in 2002 the water supply red-lined and water use was restricted. After restrictions were lifted the cost for water was up 100% and continues to rise. But the worst is still to come. Mistrust of water officials accused of bad planning amid questions of competency promises to embroil the area for years. Meanwhile, we pay four times as much for water as they pay in Northern Virginia.

We have financially strong state-of-the-art Internet providers equaling the best in the world. High tech thrives here, with a massive local infrastructure. We had more than a fair share of dot.com successes and one stupendous failure, Value America.

Our monopoly land-line telephone company changes hands every few years, and each change ups the cost because they rely on billing to finance the deal. (Have you noticed that capitalism sucks for end users?) The present name is "Embarq" (blech) which used to - and still may - be owned by Sprint, a national LD service.

Oops, forgot the latest name change. "Embarq" got flushed in favor of "CenturyLink" which will last until the next shuffle of company vice-presidents.

Like every all-copper telco, they name drop "fiber optics" but this bunch is all hat, no cattle.

How they define customer service:

If you are annoyed by spamming telephone crooks who blocks their ID (the FCC permits that), this telco claims to trace the call if you pay them $5. But do they? Company policy is they will not release any information to you even though you paid for it. They claim they will release it to a police department if the department requests it, but that never happens with spammers because, as the police explain, they have no authority over interstate phone service.

Embarq/CenturyLink takes your $5 just the same, so it OK to think they're bastards.

Ntelos, a landline service over the Blue Ridge in the Shenandoah Valley 25 miles away, provides limited telco service here, just enough to bleed off profitable commercial and University clientele. They are also empowered to provide DSL Internet service using CenturyLink's lines over a 4-mile area.

Some years ago Ntelos bought Cornerstone, our hometown hero of ISP web hosting and email back in the early days. As a result, much of Charlottesville's internet access, web hosting, and email comes through Ntelos/cstone. It probably should. Ntelos does a good job. With our local telco forever changing hands, changing names, changing policies, it's inviting disaster in my opinion to use CenturyLink as an Internet Service Provider. Here's why.

There's considerable annoyance and time waste when your email address gets changed, which can happen with every flaky ISP name change. A company that changes its name doesn't care about its customers. And it's much worse when your personal or company web site URL is forced to change because the ISP changed its name. Your online business could disappear overnight.

The third point is that providing good tech support requires a level of customer concern foreign to companies who change their name frequently, or blatantly lie in their marketing. (See below.)

I'm happy with Ntelos DSL service, email, and web hosting. No ISP in the US has more sensible policies. Their reliability is legendary.

For my convenience, I also have Comcast cable Internet access because cable broadband on WIFI is six times faster than telco DSL, and cable on ethernet is 12 times faster.

That doesn't stop CenturyLink from blanketing the area every other week with junk mail trumpeting bogus DSL vs. cable speed comparisons to seduce the innocent. Their customers then wonder why it takes half the night to download a Windows Service Pack.

As everywhere else, we have numerous cell phone companies hawking sneaky service plans to fleece the unwary. The challenge is to find the least bad deal, because it's one they never tell you about.

Every community is made up of people who make things happen, people who watch things happen, and people bewildered by what happened. We have publications to serve them all.

The local Daily Progress serves the first two groups, after a fashion. Founded in 1892, it passed out of local ownership in 1971. First it went to the Worrell Group, a chain mostly of rural weeklies who did well by it. They sold out to Media General, a Republican chain owned by a conservative southern clique with an abominable history fulminating racism.

Racism kills advertising sales now, forcing Media General to renounce it a few decades after the Progress did.

Like most conventional dailies, the editors treat the Progress as Undertakers Journal. If it bleeds, it leads. So the world outside Central Virginia is obscure bus crashes in Mexico with no local tie-in, train derailments in Bulgaria with no local tie-in, and ferry sinkings in Bangladesh with no local tie-in.

We get the details of every uncommon death in the state, from a traffic crash 150 miles away with no local tie-in to a shipyard mishap 180 miles away involving a Texan with no local tie-in. And it's politically corrupt. Headlines saying the GOP won on some issue will appear on stories from Washington revealing the GOP actually lost. An old, old trick recognizing that more people read headlines than read stories.

As the paper keeps shrinking in page size and type size, it shrinks in importance. As a one-sided Republican paper in Democrat territory, it's an anachronism.

On the positive side, it has local reporters fluent in correct English and their trade, which wasn't always the case under Media General. And it has excellent local columnists, a Progress tradition since the 1950s.

The paper is still willing to let sports reporters cross state lines to follow the Univ. of VA's major sports teams. So far as is known, the only non-sports reporter ever to cross state lines on an assignment covered the 1967 Vietnam protest "March on the Pentagon." Front page coverage included UVa students and faculty at the Mall inside DC.

The Progress editorial page has had a bumpy life for decades and is in the doldrums once again. The current regime replaced editorials analyzing issues with one-sided conservative dictates and fundamentalist Christian dogma. Intellectually, it's BBB (Bible belt backward) and harming the image the community tries to project.

The chain's flagship paper is the Richmond Times-Dispatch, a conservative southern institution available for home delivery (as are the Washington Post and the NYTimes.)

Media General has web sites including one for the Prog. Few resources are devoted to these, though things are changing. The "latest news" on the Prog web site often does have fresh stores and updates, but not removing stories days and weeks old shows neglect is still part of the game plan.

There are headlines for AP regional and national stories but none of the URLs to read the stories works for readers using a Mac computer. This holds for the entire Media General web presence. They have been unable to attain the Mac compatibility virtually every other news site in the nation can do, including local weeklies and TV and radio stations. Maybe something unique to Media General company culture.

Like other American dailies, the Prog as we know it is doomed. In 2008 they gave up having their own printing press and share a corporate one elsewhere in the state. That same year they sold their headquarters building. In 2009 they cut the 5-day week to 4 days to save labor costs. The Prog earned a profit in 2009.

On the positive side, they blazed a new trail by joining forces with a local news-gathering group, Charlottesville Tomorrow, that covers and reports local government meetings. That area of beat coverage had been in decline, and is now stabilized and improved. The successful partnership received national attention.

The handwriting on the wall suggests that in one to three years the Progress will dissolve into a regional edition of the flagship paper - the Richmond Times-Dispatch with a local Charlottesville page or two replacing the local Richmond news. And if local advertising justifies it, the Prog can be a section rather than just a page.

Minimal overhead is the only way dailies can survive. Newspapers recognize that reporters need no office; they can write and file stories from a laptop anywhere to anywhere. One set of editors in Richmond can do layout for the entire state. Display advertising can be sub-contracted to any graphics business willing to do it. Classified advertising, what little there is at a daily's inflated prices, is already done by phone, email, and internet.

The Prog is far from the only paper covering news here. There are close to a dozen monthlies and weeklies published in Charlottesville. The oldest weekly still publishing, C-ville, is what we expect to find among alternative weeklies: a voice for feminists with attitude toward other feminists. They combine that with worship of the proletariat.

The newer Hook achieves more professionalism by aiming for it, while still appealing to an alternative audience. (Hookville is a college nickname for Charlottesville.) The Hook is the only source of investigative reporting on a regular basis, and is a consistent winner of annual awards that matter.

Both weeklies rely on advocacy journalism, coddling spontaneous, unexamined bias of reporters and eschewing balance. The Hook is currently king of the hill thanks to a presumptuous, bumptious, and cheeky sports essayist, and a so-called career counselor. In the interests of competition with the other weekly, both are female.

Both weeklies compete to publish bad cartoonists.

Both weeklies offer in-depth coverage of important local issues, issues that often get superficial treatment in the daily. Like all small towns the daily was plagued with revolving door editors and reporters whose tenures were measured in months. They weren't here long enough to develop knowledge of the community. Exceptions are the columnists, the editorial page editor, and the sports department.

With the recession and a collapsing newspaper industry, to our benefit the door stopped revolving. There was no where to go.

As expected in a town of writers, articles written for the weeklies are often superb and sometimes essential to grasp what's going on here.

In addition, both weeklies celebrate saloon society (more like decaf society here) and compete at micro-coverage of the arts, music, and nightlife. In an era when the trashy taste of the common man has erased any concept of standards, The Hook and Cville serve as community diaries reflecting what's in, what's out.

Coffee shops and restaurants have multiple copies of a dozen papers for your reading pleasure. We have a huge number of restaurants, dedicated coffee shops, new book stores and used book stores, possibly the highest number per capita in the South of all of those.

Our newspapers have Internet web sites. On a scale of 10 the Hook is 9.5, C-ville around 5 and the daily 3 but with a lot of experimental changes coming. You can see more of the daily if you register and agree to be spammed by their advertisers, but you'll regret it.

In mid-2006 craigslist opened a full-featured Charlottesville site at http://charlottesville.craigslist.org/ .

There are 30 radio stations that claim (or hype) we are in their primary or secondary coverage area. Only one, WINA//WQMZ, has a local news department, though another with the same ownership, WCHV, might be sharing it. The large number of stations formerly owned by Clear Channel were sold (for half their cost) and I quit keeping up with who owns radio.

Chains ship their profits out of town, so local ownership is always preferred.

The eight AM stations are devoted to airhead chatter and preach-for-the-gold. Most of the 22 FM stations are juke boxes for the help.

Non-commercial radio is a slightly different story. The University has WTJU-FM devoted to locally produced jazz, pop, classical, and niche programming that's often amazing. But I'm prejudiced; I helped start the station in the late 1950s and was its first chief announcer. It began as all classical; now it has very little.

At least three places on the dial bring in National Public Radio (NPR) and another carries programming from Public Radio International (PRI.)

Back when these stations played classical music all day, NPR told us this area had the nation's highest per capita NPR listenership. Since then much of the music has been replaced by prattle, so that's probably no longer accurate.

The city has four network TV stations. NBC (here) and PBS (by repeater) had the area to themselves for half a century, then CBS and ABC muscled in in 2005. Fox was available over the air from Richmond but now is also local. Several stations have repeaters here. All the networks are available over the air, via cable, and via satellites. There is also undisclosed HDTV to discover if you have a roof antenna and the right equipment.

TV here has the usual humdrum newscast common to every TV station in America. All the stations use the identical, wearisome format. If congress passed a law that all TV newscasts had to look and sound the same, the industry would raise hell and go to court over it. Instead, although they have total freedom to be creative and individual, they look and sound the same.

Is it their fault the audience is too shallow to be perceptive?

Charlottesville stations can be sluggish at news gathering so to fill the time slot, they discuss the weather in exhaustive detail at least twice in every half-hour news broadcast. It's bizarre.

Once upon a time Hollywood movie executives were the poster boys for stupidity. Today it's the suits making decisions for network TV.

In 2007 our TV cable company (Adelphia) was bought out of receivership by Comcast and they are greedy. Eye-opening monthly bills pay for mailing after mailing of expensive, inept, advertising flyers blanketing the community. FCC rules and no oversight by local government allows them to charge us millions for saturation marketing. They have a contract to do this until 2013, at which time the city will pay a beltway "franchise consultant" big bucks to make a new contract no better than this one. C'est la vie.

DirectTV and DishNet satellites are at an elevation of around 23 degrees, not ideal in our hilly terrain but available to nearly everyone. Cloud cover matters about 12 hours a year.

There are six movie theaters here, some of them multiplex. They are all too loud and too cold except Vinegar Hill, the downtown art house for foreigns and classics, and the Fork Union Drive-In. Fork Union is a trip.

Another trip is the IMAX theatre 90 minutes away at the Science Museum of Virginia in Richmond.

Charlottesville's upper middle school and high school have a higher percentage of students participating in serious music programs than almost anywhere in the land, and they win gold medals. The emphasis on excellence in music is a tradition here. It's nearly everyplace you look.

Through the University's various concert programs the leading world-class musicians play here, often when on their way up.

The amount of live theatre and awesome talent is staggering. The quality is often amazing. Not infrequently the best scripts of the year are locally written. Seldom is there a weekend without two or three live theatre productions to choose from.

Local theatre enthusiasm is so broad that a 1930s Paramount film palace in the heart of downtown was restored from the foundation to the dome to become a non-profit performing arts center. In 2004 Tony Bennett did the dedication concert. A few blocks away is another performing arts center. It is adjacent to a third performing arts center. Those are distinct from the mall amphitheater two blocks away where musicians play for "Fridays After Five," a weekly summer block party for the community.

None of these is named "Performing Arts Center." That name was reserved for a fourth one at the city high school renamed for MLK.

That's not all. In addition, the university has three concert venues, or four depending on who's counting. Only the UVa football stadium has the capacity (60,435) for immensely popular attractions like Dave Matthews and U2. The new basketball arena can hold 16,000 and won a national award for the best new US concert venue to open in 2006.

Don't expect bargains just because we're in the stix; tickets are high. "You are what you charge." Only money talks.

The local Piedmont Virginia Community College makes a respectable cultural splash in all major areas.

Theatrical road companies use the Paramount.

While these theaters are available for anything requiring a stage, the area also has a half-dozen community theatre groups for adults and children, and our public and private schools regularly put on plays including musicals. On Valentine's Day, 2009, a dinner theater opened 20 miles from town. All tickets were to be 78 bucks including tip. Good luck.

Visual art has a ways to go. What was created here to hang on a wall tended to be bland, dull, derivative, but the turn of the century injected creative vigor. Now it's not rare for someone exciting to come along. What is becoming rare is an art gallery remaining open during these tough times.

Richmond's Virginia Art Museum an hour away has a spectacular collection of modern and impressionist art and Faberge eggs, and hosts major international exhibits. There are also treasures to be seen at the UVa art gallery, formerly run by the architecture school. A change in management resulted in special exhibits which elevated the UVa gallery to the must-see list.

Perhaps the visual art's highest pinnacle here was the part-time art critic for the daily paper, Ruth Latter. She was a national treasure for at least four decades. As noted earlier, this is a writer's town and there are plenty of major award winners.

The public library is first-rate. Its excellent, well-organized web site can be translated into any of 8 languages at the push of a button.

Sculpture has always had a special role here. The community indulged in outstanding over-size equestrian statues eons ago and has an enviable collection. In this era, Biscuit Run Studios was the world center for modern creations in soapstone and has subordinate studios for other media.

The local program "Art in Place" spreads huge sculptures, mostly metal, throughout the community. Winners of a national yearly competition place their statuary on highway medians, at the roadside edge of parks, and other visible areas for several months. Occasionally the city buys one for our permanent outdoor collection. In my neighborhood we have


Givens Whale, a permanent exhibit.

With such wide exposure, "What the hell is that?" commonly gives way to endearing familiarity. In addition substantial taxes are committed to attractive floral plantings along the roadsides.

Maintaining refinement is not a losing battle here. It's not even hard to do. Some who are fed up with our declining world find living in Charlottesville the best revenge.

Music, theatre, art, and a colorful downtown mall temper one's exasperation. An island for romantics.


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